At the Met Gala, every stitch told a story. Every hem is a declaration. And behind two of the most unforgettable looks at this year’s Met Gala—Diana Ross’s ethereal train and Jeremy O’Harris’s razor-sharp silhouette—stood the steady hands and discerning eye of Lionel Nichols, a self-taught tailor from Flatbush, Brooklyn.
Now, the journey from sewing in his bedroom to crafting garments for one of fashion’s biggest nights wasn’t linear, and far from easy. However, for Nichols, it was a testament to Black creativity and craftsmanship.
When the opportunity arose to help construct a look for the legendary Diana Ross, Nichols didn’t just rise to the occasion; he defined it. Tasked with building the garment’s structure, he began by shaping the Motown Queen’s iconic 18-foot-long train.
“I created the pattern to define the shape and length, then moved on to the muslin so we could physically visualize the look on a mannequin,” he shared. “That let us see how the train would fall in real time.” Once the base was sewn, the rest of the team dove into embellishments: intricate hand-beading, embroidery which included the names of all of Ross’ children and grandchildren, and the final flourish of feathering.
Collaborating with Balmain for the second year in a row, Nichols was also responsible for tailoring the looks seen on stars like Priyanka Chopra, Rosalia, and Jeremy O’Harris, whose bold historical representation of dandyism was elevated by Nichols’s attention to detail.
“When it came to Jeremy O’Harris’ look, it was all about precision and movement. I made sure the fit was flawless,” he told The Grio, explaining how he adjusted the pants to kiss the shoes perfectly and added internal wires to control the tie’s movement on the carpet. “These refinements help us make sure the overall look stays sharp and functional down the carpet, allowing the garment to move with intention and hold its structure from every angle.”
This year’s theme, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” wasn’t just a dress code but a cultural thesis spotlighting the history of dandyism across the diaspora. For Nichols, the message hit close to home.
“The theme felt like a celebration of self-expression and storytelling like saying, ‘This is who I am,’ through every stitch,” he explained. “It wasn’t just fashion, it was a movement. A protest in its own way. For me, it became a personal win over self-doubt. Being part of something that centered Black creativity and style so intentionally made it feel like we were all being seen and represented.”
As the founder and creative director of LA fashion house, “Mario & Lee,” the self-taught designer works at the intersection of craftsmanship and community, shaped by the people and places that continue to inspire his art. However, during the Met Gala, he experienced a full circle moment in which a young Black girl told him his look inspired her dream of being a fashion designer one day.
“That interaction meant everything. It reminded me how powerful it is just to show up as yourself, you never know who’s watching or what spark you might light,” he noted.
Nichols’ journey to the Met is emblematic of a larger story of the quiet hustle it takes to carve out space in an industry not always built with you in mind.
“As a self-taught kid from Flatbush, Brooklyn, being able to contribute at this level is a real testament to hard work and dedication. It shows that even if your path looks different, it’s still possible,” he added. “Being part of a Met Gala that was so rooted in Black history and culture made it even more meaningful. It showed young Black boys and girls, people who look like me, that we belong here too.”
For those looking to channel their inner dandy or simply elevate their day-to-day style, Nichols has a few non-negotiables. “It starts with intentionality—know the story you want your clothes to tell,” he advised. And while it’s ideal to tailor all your clothing, he stresses two essentials: a well-fitted suit jacket and properly hemmed pants. “It’s a small detail, but it changes everything.”
While everyone spotlights the various designers at the Met, Nichols’ craftsmanship and creativity remind us that elegance lives in the details.
